Over two years ago, I had featured this wine in this very column and I am trying the temerity to do it again. The reason for my re-introduction is its sheer quality and uniqueness of this wine. It happens to be, to date, the only true white Super Tuscan. The proud nomenclature usually reserved for the best "'rebellious" reds from Tuscany is rarely applied to anything else and, since its inception, this is the only white wine to have been unanimously accorded this honour. At a recent tasting in the city, we were collectively reminded of this oak-aged Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay mix, of how it is fresh and vibrant when young and powerful and complex with age.
It was likened to the famed French wines of Batard-Montrachet (Batard is French for Bastard!) but for legal reasons they couldn’t use that name. Instead they chose Batar, which also (conveniently) means “stirring” in a local dialect. While still in the barrel, the wine is constantly stirred to mix up the lees thereby imparting more flavour to it. And so it stays, one of Italy’s most lauded white wines with a quirky name.